State of the Internet | 03

State of the Internet | 03

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It’s Friday, and it’s time for dressed.so’s third installment of the State of the Internet! We’ll bring you reading material every two weeks* that discusses fashion’s impact on culture, society, Kanye West gossip, and your wallet. I’m Celine, and I’ll be your guide to the rest of the fashion internet.

This week, we have: Balmain’s creative director on his Zara copycats, fashion tech startup news, ways to discover fresh new clothing brands, and the eternal question: is minimalism now overplayed?


FASHION

The familiar #minimalist #normcore style currently in vogue, as shot for AYR's fall 2014 lookbook

The familiar #minimalist #normcore style currently in vogue, as shot for AYR’s fall 2014 lookbook.

+ Fashionista‘s Lauren Sherman asks, “Are we maxed out on minimalism?” When all the cool new brands and designers are hyping up elevated, luxe wardrobe basics, A.P.C. is taking a stand against it. “This house is not the house of normcore and I am done with minimalism”, says founder Jean Touitou. Is this a sign that COS-like silhouettes and pared-down garments may be dwindling in mass fashion appeal?

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1. A.P.C. Blue Basique Sweatshirt
2. A.P.C. Leaf-Pattern Jumpsuit
3. A.P.C. University Sweatshirt

 + The Independent takes a look into Balmania and how creative director Olivier Rousteing is taking the Balmain heritage of couture and eighties rock into new heights. And he addresses the issue of high-street copying in a surprisingly chill way—”I love seeing a Zara window with my clothes mixed with Céline and Proenza! I think that’s genius…they have a great sense of styling and how to pick up what they have to pick up from designers. I’m really happy that Balmain is copied – when I did my Miami collection and we did the black and white checks, I knew they would be in Zara and H&M.”

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1. Balmain Ribbed Leather Biker Low Boot, Black
2. Balmain Leather Straight-Leg Pants
3. Balmain Wool-Silk Structural Dress in Fuchsia

+ Shayne Oliver’s Hood by Air has gotten industry and celebrity nods (Kanye and A$AP Rocky are fans) for taking streetwear influences to the fashion crowd. Read an interview where he discusses the role of the internet in the success of HBA, and how to merge creativity and business in running a brand.

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1. Hood by Air Graphic-Print Fleece Combo Pant-Shorts
2. Hood By Air Zip Off Double T-Shirt
3. Hood by Air Graphic-Print Jersey Combo Pant-Shorts

+ Want to discover new brands by promising young designers? Not Just a Label supports and sells work by fledgling designers, many of which are more adventurous and exploratory than their bigger commercial counterparts. It’s also a fantastic platform for connecting with the designers and makers at these small brands. Susie Lau of Style Bubble (herself an ardent supporter of young indie designers) explains her love for NJAL and showcases some super-talented designers.

CULTURE

Left: Andreja Pejić in the Gaultier men's F/W 2011 show that helped bring her to international prominence. Right: an intimate headshot via Miista.

Left: Andreja Pejić in the Gaultier men’s F/W 2011 show that helped bring her to international prominence. Right: an intimate headshot via Miista.

+ Andreja Pejic has been a highly visible ambassador of androgyny in fashion, walking in runways and shooting ad campaigns for menswear and womenswear alike. Here’s an interview just after she finished sex reassignment surgery, and it’s an incisive and personable look at trans identity and how it’s affected her modeling career. Her comments about being seen as a fashion model and not just a gimmick are super-interesting: “My biggest challenge was to not always be pigeonholed, and also to make [androgyny] commercially successful, because when I started, it was such a new thing”.

+ If you follow personal style blogs, beauty vloggers, or other hugely successful blogging demographics, you’ve probably come across Get Off My Internets—or a blog with a dedicated GOMI thread. It’s alternately described as a gossip mag where bloggers are the celebrities, and a forum for (sometimes angrily) criticizing writers. Racked interviews the anonymous founder, and discusses GOMI’s place in the fashion blogging community.

+ The conversation around plastic surgery these days is inevitably tied to race—South Korea and a widely-held desire for double eyelids, for instance. The Cut takes a thoughtful, extensive, and introspective look at the ethnic and ethics behind plastic surgery.

COMMERCE

Left: portrait of Hedi Slimane, creative director of Saint Laurent Paris, via Forbes. Right: lookbook image from his inaugural YSL/SLP menswear collection.

Left: portrait of Hedi Slimane, creative director of Saint Laurent Paris, via Forbes. Right: lookbook image from his inaugural SLP menswear collection, via Beige UK.

+ It’s not just you and it’s not just your (smaller-than-desirable) wallet—designer fashion prices have inflated enormously in comparison to other consumer goods. Business of Fashion throws out some surprising numbers (Chanel quilted bags are 70% more expensive than they were 5 years ago) and discusses how pricing disparities play out on an international scale, particularly with Chinese consumers.

+ Following up on our recent article on Slimane at Saint Laurent Paris—turns out SLP clothes and accessories are flying off the shelves (virtual or otherwise). Sales have risen 42% (crazy!) in the past half-year. Hedi has been criticized for taking SLP in a more commercial direction, but clearly it’s working out financially.

+ Yoox, beloved for its great Ann D deals but also incomprehensible styling, is a rumored potential buyout target for Amazon, Business of Fashion reports.. Amazon’s been dipping its toes into fashion (most notably with its flash sale site, MyHabit) and Yoox is a $1.6bn business.

+ Say it isn’t so—Hukkster, an online shopping tool that alerted you when online products went on sale, has unexpectedly shut down. TechCrunch has a writeup on it—but explanations remain elusive. For those desperately bereft and mourning, here’s a community-submitted list of alternatives.

+ Trunk Club, a men’s style company where stylists curate clothing options for discerning but busy guys, was bought by Nordstrom. Trunk Club carries a respectable lineup of brands and deeply emphasizes their customer service—a good fit for Nordstrom, it looks like. It’ll be interesting to see if Nordstrom expands to more online fashion opportunities!

STYLE

hurr

From Carlotta Cardana’s photo series of mod couples.

+ Carlotta Cardana’s photo series of mod couples, as featured by Selectism, provides both 60’s sartorial inspiration and a sudden urge to get that #lifestyle shot. We’re so happy when men’s and women’s fashion inspiration come together, but so sad because finding a significant other is hard enough, never mind one that’s aesthetically cohesive with your look.

+ Coletterie (also deeply beloved by yours truly for publishing sewing patterns that are less Mormon-housewife and more in line with the cool-kid d.so crowd) has a great post on shopping for inspiration, and using the experience of looking at real-life clothing to understand how it’s constructed. It’s helpful for the DIY-fashion types, yes—but it’s also a great practice if you want to learn to buy high-quality clothing and figure out what style you’d really like to dress as.

+ Ironing. Okay, don’t run away from this blog post just yet. Put This On has great tips for ironing clothing, and this goes beyond “Step 1: turn it on” to legitimately useful time-saving and burn-avoiding ironing methods. Your OCBDs (yes, even the Uniqlo ones) need this.


Thanks for reading! We hope that our regular State of the Internet installments satisfy your mind as much as end-of-season sales satisfy your materialist lust for linen. Or knits, depending on the season.

Comment with your thoughts—are you tired of the minimalist craze or still into B&W Instagrams of your perfect draped shirt? Have a new favorite designer from trawling Not Just a Label’s stock? Do you feel guilty about not having touched your IKEA iron for 3 years? Let us know!


 

xCONTIBUTORS

Celine | Writer, Graphics
Bhoka | Graphics
LadySyrupp | Shopping

* This was a week late. I (Celine, ashamed and humbled writer) take full responsibility for leaving d.so readers bereft for a full seven days, forced to RSS by their own devices and parse the internet without a snappy summary. Here’s a Tumblr of people wearing Comme des Garçons. Forgive me.

 

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  1. johari.sharvari@gmail.com'
    stella7gem at 9:40 pm

    I finally googled OCBDs and now I feel like I can officially fashion blog. And of course, everyone wants to ditch minimalism now that I’m into it.

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