Edit, 19 September 2014: See our addendum to this interview.…
It’s Friday, and it’s the first of dressed.so’s State of the Internet series! We’ll bring you reading material every two weeks that discusses fashion’s impact on culture, society, Kanye West gossip, and your wallet.
I’m Celine, and I’ll be your guide to the rest of the fashion internet. This week, we have: the continued stunts of Riccardo Tisci, racial diversity in the modeling world, the story behind Everlane’s box-cut tees, and how to pack stylishly compact outfits on vacation.
+ Miuccia Prada did something unusual for her spring 2015 menswear collection—she sent 15 womenswear looks down the runway as well. Speaking to the Telegraph, she said: “I think the combination is more real. It is more today…The shows divided are so unreal and I think that it is when you put them together you get a sense of what is meaningful and real.”
+ The Cut featured five up-and-coming French brands—including Jacquemus, a young designer who started his label at the age of 19 (he’s 24 now), and the Pallas husband-and-wife team who produce modern, beautifully restrained suiting. (Read The Cut’s previous interview with Jacquemus, and Matches Fashion’s visit to the Pallas atelier.)
+ French blogger and journalist Samar Youssef of Une Libanaise a Paris did a fantastic interview with Mary Katrantzou, known for her brilliantly graphic and colorful prints inspired by Ming vases to lampshades. (Read a 2012 profile of Mary Katrantzou by The Guardian.)
+ Givenchy’s creative director Riccardo Tisci is a close friend of Kanye West, so it’s not surprising that he loves producing a spectacle. He exploded a plane (from 1964!) for his Paris menswear show. He reportedly also showed the fashion crowd more conventional displays, like clothes on models.
+ The Fashion Spot did some investigation into racial diversity at 21 top modeling agencies, calculating the percentage of models of color at top agencies like Ford, Wilhelmina, and IMG. Percentages range from 46% models of color to a dismal 0%. (If you’re curious what the average was, I did the math for you—18.48%.)
+ The Great Discontent, a beloved interview series of creatives in the world of design, art, and media, launched their first print issue of their magazine. The cover star and print-only interview feature is Tavi Gevinson, breakout styleblogger star and founder of Rookie, which I like to describe as “a magazine for teenage girls with taste and Tumblr accounts.”
+ Everlane founder Michael Preysmen sat down with Inc Magazine (which recently named him one of their 35 Under 35 entrepreneurs for 2014) for a brief profile of the brand’s first three years. Included: how the women’s box cut tees were the result of a manufacturing fluke.
+ Mansur Gavriel, fledgling It-Bag brand, launched e-commerce on their site. Their signature black bucket bag (tiny branding, discreet hardware) with the bright “flamma” red lining instantly sold out. Of course. Fun fact: the founders (Rachel Mansur and Floriana Gavriel) met at a The xx concert.
+ Net-A-Porter, the online luxury fashion site, announced their new e-commerce venture Net-a-Sporter, so you can go beyond styling fashion sweatpants to go outdoors to wearing impeccable running shorts to hang out with friends. From the company: “It was important to us from the beginning that the pieces themselves were not only performance-based but that they could also be incorporated into our customers’ personal style…we have developed a category called ‘après sport’ designed for those who want to look incredibly stylish after their workout.”
+ American Apparel, known for their normcore MIUSA basics but also their uncomfortably sexualized ads, has ousted founder and CEO Dov Charney from the company. The cited reason is misuse of company funds, but Charney’s bad rep in the press after multiple sexual harassment lawsuits might’ve also been a factor. The New York Times has a piece on Charney’s attempt to regain his role, and the Business of Fashion has the ending to the whole corporate drama (sad for Charney, maybe better for business).
+ Anuschka Reez of Into Mind wrote a ridiculously thorough guide on building a versatile travel wardrobe, with her signature clean diagrams and helpful graphics.
+ Timothy Nguyen’s Something Bespoke blog did a fantastic interview with Gracia Ventus of The Rosenrot. If you want a great example of styling insane runway pieces without letting the clothes wear you, she’s an excellent person to look at. She talks about pursuing the unconventional and unusual in fashion, how it can push gender stereotypes, and how to wear Rick Owens. No lie, this is one of the most satisfying interviews you’ll read.
Intro Photo via Creative Commons